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These (and their hybrid
berries) are the last of the soft fruits ripening
from August until November. They freeze well and
make excellent tarts and preserves. They are the
hardiest of all fruits and several varieties may
be planted as a windbreak, trained along strong
wires. They bear fruit both on the old and new
canes and so crop heavily, doing well in all soils
and in all climates. They do not need as much
sunlight as other fruits and may be grown against
a north wall or on a trellis which receives only
a small amount of sunlight. Several of them have
attractive fern-like foliage and may be grown
against rustic poles – possible to divide
one part of the garden from another, with a central
archway for access. Or plant in rows and train
the stems along wires held in place by strong
stakes at intervals of 240cm (8ft). Plant November
to March 240cm (8ft) apart in the rows and allow
150cm (5ft) between the rows. Where possible,
plant thornless varieties, which are easier to
tie in and to pick the fruit. Set the roots only
7-10cm (3-4in) deep.
Another method is to grow them up 3m (10ft) poles,
or posts driven well into the ground with 240cm
(8ft) above ground. Tie in the shoots as they
grow, and when they have made too much old wood,
cut away the ties and lay all the shoots on the
ground. Then cut out the older wood and tie in
against the new shoots. In this way, the plants
will be kept healthy for years. The time to do
this is in late November after fruiting; at this
time any old or dead wood is removed from those
plants grown as a hedge or in rows.
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